
Known as ‘gou’ (糕) in Cantonese and ‘ban’ in Hakka, this traditional delicacy is a form of cake created using ground rice. During the Lunar New Year, the Hakka people place great importance on making Hakka Year Cake (‘circular steamer cake’, 圓籠粄), serving both as gifts and for household consumption. A prevalent theory circulating online is that the name originates from the cake’s resemblance to the Hakka walled village (客家圍龍屋), although it is more likely named after the circular bamboo steamer.
Prior to the widespread use of metal trays, bamboo steamers lined with leaves were the go-to option for villagers due to their convenience, ample space, easy cleaning and efficient heat conduction. Bamboo steamer moulds the shape of the cake, while indigenous leaves (Phrynium leaves and Ban Feng He Gen, 柊葉和半楓荷) prevent leakage of the batter, akin to contemporary aluminon foil. Once the rice cakes have been set, they can be lifted out along with the leaves, keeping the bamboo steamer free of residue. The subtle leaf aroma and smoky firewood scent are infused into the rice cakes, enriching their flavour.
While the method of producing Hakka Year Cake may seem straightforward (refer to the diagram), it requires more than ten hours of steaming due to its substantial size. Regular stirring is crucial for steaming the cake evenly, and as the cakes approach completion, stirring becomes increasingly tough and requires more strength. Not to mention the preparatory steps involved, such as collecting leaf linings and pounding rice into rice flour with a foot-operated stone mortar (which is believed to take an entire night).
Left to cool and set for a few days, the Hakka Year Cake becomes rather dense and heavy. Slicing through it requires iron wires, much like cutting into a cheese wheel. When given as a present, the cake will be wrapped in red paper. A ‘light gift’ but it is the sentiment that counts.
